Tyresö, Spring 2011, Narcissism.

Largo, Träskberget. Ph: Erik Lindvall

Träskberget on the Tyresö peninsula har been all the rage this spring, at least among my friends. Much thanks to Johan Luhr who has put enormous ammounts of effort into cleaning, bolting and climbing these routes all between 7c and 8b. Johan just turned 50 and put up his latest 8b, Oldfinger, just a couple of days ago, also here on Träskberget, all of them super fun and a bit atypical for Tyresö with their steep and blocky style. I climbed most of them including the variations this spring but Johan's newest addition will probably have to wait till atumn or at least till cooler weather comes in. Again my triggerhappy friend Erik Lindvall, joined Erik Lundqvist and me for a session to get some shots.

Largo, Träskberget

Scaramanga

Scaramanga

Scaramanga

Scaramanga

Spring, for real!

Style is everything. Simon Andersson climbing Cosmos Kid, yet another of Stockholm's classics. Maja Fresk and Hedda the Basenji sucking up some UV-rays.

Spring in Stockholm

Stefan Wulf sticking the final dyno on Mr Magister to make the first send of the year and by doing so earning himself a beer. Photo: Erik Lindvall

Travelling back from Chalten was maybe not a nightmare, but definately not pleasant. nearly 60 hours of travel via El Calafate, Ushuaia, Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo and London before landing at Arlanda where Sofia, Audun and Hilde where waiting to suprise me. I once again was reminded of the fact that I really don't like travelling, more hate it, but I certainly love visiting new places. It's a quite big difference.

Anyhow, it's great to be back home in Stockholm with my family as well as friends. Climbing wise it feels like I got the timing just perfect. The winterseason was just diminishing as I left for Argentina and now as I get back spring season is accellerating. Saturday was the first day on rock for me after coming home last week. Splitter winter weather made climbing on the south facing Dödskalleberget quite pleasant and it attracted quite a crowd. These first days of early spring on Dödskalleberget have sort of become an institution for the Stockholm climbing scene and even though I've climbed these routes countless times it's so nice to feel the sun gradually heating up the rock after it's winter hibernation. It's good to be back home.

Topping out Holidays in Eden, one of my favorite routes around town. Photo: Erik Lindvall

Winter holidays and a New Year

The last weeks have been spent exploring the ever so exellent winter conditions of the local crags and doing loads of cross country skiing mixed up with some milage climbing indoors, crossfit training and a couple of pathetic efforts of bouldering. The bouldering part doesn't really bother me part from it sucks beeing even weaker than normal. Despite that I figure I'm about three times as strong as i need to be for Patagonia.

During christmas I got the opportunity to join my old maestro Stefan Lindblom to the old silver mines outside Sala where he has established heaps of ice and mixed lines. The setting is wicked cool and I got to climb a few of Stefans dry tooling test pieces. I also ha a good burn on his route Tsunami, an unrepeated thug fest. Even though I think drilling hook placements is quite lame I must admit that that the climbing is fun. Considering that its on quarried rock I quess one can live with it. We also went down to Ågelsjön again and Stefan and I, as well as climbing the ever so fat lines on the main wall both repeated Peter Värvels old M8 on the lake cliff . I flashed it with preplaced gear, not the best of styles but it just worked out that way. Any how a way cool line that deserves more traffic. Big ups to Peter for leading the way of this kind of climbing more than 10 years ago and to climb it on natural pro.

Thanks again to my ever so trigger happy friend Erik Lindvall for sending me these photos from our day out last week at Uddudde with Måns Berg.

Gallery

Gritstone Ice

[caption id="attachment_432" align="aligncenter" width="607" caption="Climbing a very rarely formed ice pillar on Gritstoneberget outside Stockholm. December 14th. Photo: Erik Lindvall"][/caption]

Autumn Pix.

Days are definately getting shorter and the sun hardly gets to dry up the rock in between showers and snow. One sunny day last week I just had to escape from work for a few hours to do a couple of routes out on Dyviksudde, a classic crag on the Tyresö peninsula outside Stockholm. Erik Lindvall joined me to take advantage of the beautiful day.

[caption id="attachment_299" align="aligncenter" width="607" caption="Apunkalyps Ph: Erik Lindvall"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_298" align="aligncenter" width="607" caption="Autumn at Dyviksudde. Ph: Erik Lindvall"][/caption]

Fight gone bad

Ett försök att drytoola Bladerunner på Dyviksudde. Det gick inget vidare men man får väl säga att det gick bra ändå...
Nästa gång!