Tyresö, Spring 2011, Narcissism.

Largo, Träskberget. Ph: Erik Lindvall

Träskberget on the Tyresö peninsula har been all the rage this spring, at least among my friends. Much thanks to Johan Luhr who has put enormous ammounts of effort into cleaning, bolting and climbing these routes all between 7c and 8b. Johan just turned 50 and put up his latest 8b, Oldfinger, just a couple of days ago, also here on Träskberget, all of them super fun and a bit atypical for Tyresö with their steep and blocky style. I climbed most of them including the variations this spring but Johan's newest addition will probably have to wait till atumn or at least till cooler weather comes in. Again my triggerhappy friend Erik Lindvall, joined Erik Lundqvist and me for a session to get some shots.

Largo, Träskberget

Scaramanga

Scaramanga

Scaramanga

Scaramanga

French Connections

Wulfman warming up on Balla Ballar

Last Saturday Daniel Andersson had a particularly good day of sports climbing at Östnoraberget, half an hour of south of Stockholm, sending both Arc de Triomphe and Vive la France in an annoyingly easy manner making the rest of us look even weaker and more uncoordinated than usual.

Daniel Andersson cruising up Arc de Triomphe.

Crusher Andersson, Arc de Triomphe.

Danne Andersson cruising again, this time on Vive la France.

El Corall, Simon Andersson looking french.

Aurinko paistaa

Olli struggling to hang on to the slopers on Lähetyssaarnaaja at E75.

Eevi on a pretty nice arete.

Mainland Finland probably isn't famous for it's climbing but for sure there are a couple of gems. Two of them are Falkberget and the sandstone!!?? bouldering area E75 close to Lahti. A couple of weekends ago I was invited show some slides (pics) and got the opportunity to climb at these two locations. Nice rock, cool routes, great friends and beautiful spring weather. I was probably most pleased with flashing the crack Charlatan at Falkberget.

Easter was spent at the more popular destination in the Åland archipelago. More about that later.

Motion picture

Our friend Martin filmed and edited this little snippet.

Erik å Erik klättrar Moonwalker på Bistaberget i Nyköping.

Spring in Stockholm

Stefan Wulf sticking the final dyno on Mr Magister to make the first send of the year and by doing so earning himself a beer. Photo: Erik Lindvall

Travelling back from Chalten was maybe not a nightmare, but definately not pleasant. nearly 60 hours of travel via El Calafate, Ushuaia, Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo and London before landing at Arlanda where Sofia, Audun and Hilde where waiting to suprise me. I once again was reminded of the fact that I really don't like travelling, more hate it, but I certainly love visiting new places. It's a quite big difference.

Anyhow, it's great to be back home in Stockholm with my family as well as friends. Climbing wise it feels like I got the timing just perfect. The winterseason was just diminishing as I left for Argentina and now as I get back spring season is accellerating. Saturday was the first day on rock for me after coming home last week. Splitter winter weather made climbing on the south facing Dödskalleberget quite pleasant and it attracted quite a crowd. These first days of early spring on Dödskalleberget have sort of become an institution for the Stockholm climbing scene and even though I've climbed these routes countless times it's so nice to feel the sun gradually heating up the rock after it's winter hibernation. It's good to be back home.

Topping out Holidays in Eden, one of my favorite routes around town. Photo: Erik Lindvall

France

Things have been pretty hectic for the last couple of weeks. Åland was great, checked out a a few new areas and had a brushing session on Sunday. Cleaned up this beautiful hanging arete. Have to come to a decision weather to put in some bolts or to maintain the bolt free character of the area and keep it bold. I'll deal with that later. Last weekend I headed down to Chamonix for 5.10s european sales meeting. So psyched to work with this company. The climbing shoe line for 2011 looks wicked, nice new models and updates of already existing ones. The colours could be better but they're still a work in progress. Got a nice run in the hills outside Cham in the morning, the had some meetings, went bouldering among the granite blocks in La Bossons, got pumped, got scared, got up, met an old friend, had a good laugh and just made it back to our hotel, les Aiglons in time for a great dinner with all the guys and gals at 5.10.
After the meeting I hooked up with an old friend of my wife, David who's been living in Swizzy and now in Briancon for the last couple of years. Driving down from cham was a sprayfest with David giving his point of wiew on everybody that climbs mountains with fixed ropes and supplementary oxygen. Somewhere on the way he lost his voice. I have no idea how that could have happened but i could have something to do with alcohol and smoke. Anyway, I'm staying with him and his hospitable wife Camilla and their son Milton.

[caption id="attachment_176" align="alignleft" width="460" caption="DaVid Fält slabbing in Aillefroid"][/caption]

Sports climbing down here i awesome. Small areas but all different and really nice. My finger is working OK even though I'm trying, not very well though, to be careful. Last day on out of four we went to Ceuse, a not so small and rather well known area. Climbing the previous three days and little sleep lot had taken it's toll and by the end of the day I was getting pumped after three moves and wasn't recovering even on the biggest jugs. Resting today is a blessing.