fredag 1 april 2011

On the wrong side of vertical.

The weekend was spent on the positive side of vertical as both Saturday, Sunday as well as Monday were spent slab climbing. Saturday was dedicated to Scott Mooneys newly established route Moonwalker at Bistaberget, a rather short route with a bouldery slabby crux. Pretty difficult. I failed, Martin failed while young, gifted and slack Erik Lundquist also failed but eventually sent in qood style. Super cool and I guess I've gotta go down there again quite soon. The next two days I spent Västerås to visit my parents and visit some customers and I took the opportunity to boulder at my beloved Gryta boulders, just a couple of minutes walk from my parents house. During my highschool days I spent a lot of time bouldering there and it's as close to a home climbing area it can get for me. I had my eye on a slab that's been on my mind for ages, one of the area's last great problems (not so great maybe, but one of the last obvious lines at least), first as an impossible wall, and later as a possible project. Together with local boys Jonas Franzén, Johan Ernlund and Tommy Torsne we figured out the basics of the moves quite quickly but it took tons of tries spread out over two sessions before I actually sent. Through out the process I think I fell on every possible position and move. Eventually, when my tips where shredded and taped up, it finally went down. Nordväggen direkt, The Direct North face



Johan had a good day as well and sent Nitty Gritty later on. Wicked!

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